It's something I tried as a kid, but never stuck with. I was never successful, so I didn't continue to try.
Getting back in the water Wednesday, with a wetsuit and a 10'10" surfboard and Nanci by my side, certain things came back naturally.
I hopped on the surfboard and paddled out, only to need a break by the time I got to where I needed to be. Yep, I remembered that. Then...turn around to get ready for a wave...check. And paddle, paddle, paddle...and didn't catch it.
That's when Nanci stepped in. She got in front of me. Timed the wave. Told me when to paddle. Gave me a little nudge....and I WAS OFF!
As the waved picked me up, I started to pop up and got to my knees. So awesome. So exhilarating!
The best part...everyone out for Mom's Morning was cheering me on. Cheering each other on.
It didn't matter if you'd never surfed, been there once or were a regular to the morning group, because everyone is still learning and it's amazing how things feel with a little hooting and hollering to keep on rolling.
Granted after nearly two hours in the water and then an hour long training session in the gym, I can hardly lift my arms today, it was all totally worth it.
I found what I had been missing and am psyched to get back in the water. My summer's goal was to learn to surf (for real), and I've finally started working toward that goal. Just because I'm unemployed doesn't mean I can't have a little fun....right?!?!
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